Bistro Guillaume

15.5/20  

French

Whether you're perched at a window table for two, watching the passing parade, or ensconced at a more dressy table inside, this has become the go-to place in town for classic steak frites. It's a comfortable and handsome room, with its Hamptons-meets-Paris cream-and-black decor and pantaloon-like light fittings, parquet floors, timber Venetians, toile and unstuffy service. To begin, three scallops arrive atop a satiny globe-artichoke puree with wickedly salty spinach and vegetable crisps – an assured start. The menu mainstay, apart from the spectacularly stacked fish and chips, is steak frites: a grain-fed Angus sirloin with a Mont Blanc-high mountain of skinny French fries, a luscious tarragon bearnaise and a pile of French-dressed watercress on the warm plate. Add Guillaume Brahimi's buttery green beans. If you survive a trip down the treacherously all-black staircase to the bathrooms (and the bar), celebrate with something sublime from the queen of desserts, Philippa Sibley, perhaps pistachio brittle atop a cool, green, brown-sugar custard with a bitter-chocolate tuile, or a classic souffle. And be grateful that amidst the Casino's kerching and bling, there's still room for such casual elegance.

Open Daily noon–3pm, 6pm–late 
Typical prices E $25 M $40 D $18 
Cards AE DC MC V Eftpos 
Wine 18-page list strong on vintages from near (Victoria) and far (France); around 30 by the glass; all sparklings are French 
Owner Guillaume Brahimi 
Chefs Guillaume Brahimi and Beau Vincent 
Seats 100; private room; bar