Bob Smith – Surf Historian
'A lot.'
That is Bob Smith's response when asked how many surfboards he owns. The avid surfing historian also possesses a vast library of books, magazines and memorabilia relating to his favourite pastime. A retired schoolteacher, Bob now works part-time as an archivist at Rip Curl and at the world's largest surfing and beach culture museum, the Surfworld Museum in Torquay. 'A lot of people ask me to answer historical questions, help them identify collectables, document details of who made certain historic surfboards, where and when,' Bob says.
He also continues to surf virtually every day, continuing a lifelong love affair with the ocean. 'From my home in Jan Juc I can see the ocean. A few weeks ago I saw a whale and its baby heading west. I raced around to Bells Beach and had a surf with this whale and calf only 100m away. The day after that I was surfing at 13th Beach and a school of dolphins surfed the waves with me. Surfers get to experience unique things that many other people don't. It makes you feel very special.'
A lifelong passion
Bob has been Victorian Surfboard Champion 12 times in age divisions from Over-35 to Over-55. In 2001 he retired from teaching and started working part-time at Rip Curl as company archivist and historian, as well as developing exhibitions at Surfworld Museum. 'From day one I was not just an avid surfer but also an avid reader. Back in the '60s I would get hold of every surf magazine from America and Australia that I could. I loved reading about exotic places around the world, well-known surfers, and I established an ongoing, historical knowledge. I've never lost that passion.'
Surfing Victoria's west coast
'Victoria is a sensational place for surfing. The area I know best is the west coast. As a surfer you get to experience and love all the magnificent breaks along the Great Ocean Road. That starts with Bells Beach obviously, then there are the great spots around Lorne, on to Johanna past Cape Otway with its beautiful rain forests and national parks, then the shipwreck coast area of Port Campbell. Within 15 minutes of where I live there are so many great reef breaks – Bird Rock, Winkipop, Steps, Sparrows, Centreside, Point Impossible. We are spoiled with all those choices.
Morning ritual
'I'm up at first light every day and occasionally while it's still dark if I know there are good waves expected. I'm what they call a 'dawn patroller'. I surf at daybreak every day that there are surfable waves and stay out for about an hour and a half. I can't think of a better way to start the day. I have a Malibu long board and a short board but I find with my increasing age I'm enjoying riding the Malibu more and more. Surfing is what I love and is an ongoing, integral part of my lifestyle. There will always be new challenges. No two waves are exactly alike.'
