15/20
Contemporary
Albury's best restaurant occupies a modest space. Decorated in mushroom-pink and sage-green, it is enlarged by a bank of framed mirrors on one wall. But from the arrival of the complimentary appetiser and the excellent house-baked bread and house-churned butter, you know this is serious eating. The menu, though not large, still covers flesh, fish and fowl, and even allows for vegetarians. Jodie Jones's cooking explores how different textures modify the flavour of ingredients – as in an entree of shredded confit duck leg topped with seared duck breast, alongside a crunchy beetroot salad with walnuts, and a creamy beetroot mousse. It's a very elegant play – and display – of textures and flavours. So is a main course of rabbit, which includes a rabbit sausage, rolled saddle, and roast rack, with roasted tomato, chorizo and cauliflower. Desserts are gorgeous – maybe a layered nasturtium and nectarine jelly with poached nectarine and nougat icecream. There is always a small range of cheese in excellent condition. Co-owner Steve Carne knows his wines and runs the floor, directing polished and informed service. Ask him for the special list of fortifieds.
Open Thurs–Fri noon–2pm; Tues–Sat 6–9pm
Typical prices E $18 M $32 D $14
Cards AE DC MC V Eftpos
Wine Classified by varietal, a world tour of wine; fabulous fortifieds
Owners Jodie Jones and Steve Carne
Chef Jodie Jones
Seats 40; outdoor seating 
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