Ezard

 17/20

Contemporary

Not so long ago, top-end dining was a quasi-religious experience. The supplicant entered a stark and minimalist space, patrolled by po-faced staff, to bow at the altar of the chef of the moment. Ezard has kept the rigorous approach to fine cuisine (including degustation), but imbued the dining experience with warmth and hospitality, from the classic dark-timber furniture and spotless linen in the long, narrow basement dining room to the gentle expertise of the floor staff. But it's Teage Ezard's food that carries you away. Deceptively simple combinations mask a variety of flavours that reveal themselves slowly across the palate – like the four types of citrus zest in a sublime verjuice butter sauce that supports coral trout with a plump Moreton Bay bug tortelli. Or the myriad textures and flavours that emerge from feather-light gnocchi with dark, earthy field mushrooms in a fresh pea and parmesan crumble. An old favourite – masterstock- soaked pork hock with chilli caramel – is so dense and flavour-packed it will leave you breathless. Desserts are minor works of art and the wine list deep and impressive. Ezard might be an old stager these days, but it's one of consummate consistency and distinction.

Open Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm; Mon–Sat 6pm–late
Typical prices E $24.50 M $45 D $22
Cards AE DC MC V
Wine Deep and substantial, cherry-picking the best international and domestic wines
Owner Teage Ezard
Chefs Teage Ezard and Sharn Greiner
Seats 75; private room