Attica

17.5/20  

Contemporary

The phrase 'the shock of the new' could have been coined about Attica. This is food created with intellect and passion, and imbued with theatre and energy. New Zealand-born chef Ben Shewry has a growing reputation as a deft 21st-century technician, but don't mistake his work for the full molecular-gastronomy monty – although his excellent and now-legendary smoked trout broth served with fresh smoke has all the gimmickry of that movement. His is simply wonderful, thoughtfully orchestrated food. Spanner crab with horseradish, roe, verjuice and bubbled rice snaps and crackles with texture; rare wagyu is topped with candied slivers of new ginger and paired with an egg-yolk puree. There's a nod to the notion of dinner as a journey with Shewry's 'terroir' – a mix of beetroot, berries, lime and flowers that demarcates between savoury and sweet courses – before he unleashes the dessert hounds with a tumbler of rich sauternes custard, berries and toffee. More affordable than many other of the city's top restaurants – there's a bargain degustation Tuesdays – Attica won't be for everyone (the decor is certainly not its strongest suit). But it's food for thought for people who like to be challenged and wowed at the dining table. Among Melbourne's best.

Open Tues–Sat 6–10.30pm
Typical prices E $24 M $40 D $18
Cards AE DC MC V Eftpos
Wine Smart boutique list fairly evenly split between Old and New World labels
Owners David and Helen Maccora
Chef Ben Shewry
Seats 50; outdoor seating; private room