Anthony Siu Pui Lui – Restaurateur
Anthony Siu Pui Lui has a limited command of English, but no-one doubts his fluency in the language of food. Since 1981 he has been articulating culinary ideas in the kitchen of the Flower Drum restaurant. He is now a co-owner of the revered city establishment, where he continues to communicate in distinguished and distinctive fashion.
'The fact that I can show my style of cooking Chinese cuisine and introduce it to other people is what really excites me,' Anthony says via his elder son Jason, who translates. 'In my kitchen here I can use traditional styles of cooking with precious Australian produce and ingredients. In many ways, the restaurant is a conduit to send my message out, a way of expressing things.'
Central Melbourne is a long way from the village in Canton where Anthony was born, but the early lessons that he learned about cooking from his chef father continue to inform his practice today. This knowledge of traditional techniques is balanced with new ideas garnered from frequent trips back to Hong Kong and China. The result, according to experts and casual diners alike, translates beautifully.
Fresh produce
'Everything depends on the availability of ingredients. Some special things such as Shitake mushrooms, shark fin, fish maws and dried tangerine peels we source from Hong Kong. However a lot of good produce is freely available here, and when it comes to things like seafood, vegetables and meat we are spoiled for choice. I always use fresh ingredients that are seasonal. Food must be served as soon as it is cooked so diners can savour fully the various tastes.'
The Australian palate
'With Australia being so multicultural now, our palates have become more sophisticated. In 1981, most of the Asian restaurants in Melbourne were doing chop suey or sweet and sour pork and that was about it. Nowadays people are more aware and in tune with what's available to them. Compared to the way I cooked when I was in Hong Kong, fundamentally it's the same although there I was cooking for Asian tastebuds. Here it is an Australian palate that I am cooking for, and with that comes a bit more innovation, bringing in different ideas to the old traditional way.'
Beyond Flower Drum
When he ventures beyond his own restaurant, Anthony enjoys a meal with his sons Jason and Victor at Kun Ming in Chinatown. For different flavours he frequents Philippe Mouchels Brasserie at Crown or Becco. He is also fond of excursions to the Yarra Valley to visit wineries and taste what is on offer.
