17/20
Contemporary
It's the generosity of spirit in the service and the food that makes Lake House so truly wonderful. You could get lost in the view of the willow-fringed lake through the panoramic windows, but the real show plays out at your spacious, linen-dressed table. The waistcoated waitstaff redefine 'elegant-casual', the sommeliers speak both wine jargon and the parlance of the casual quaffer. Lake House's menu reflects the hinterland's rich rolling farmland, with local lamb, beef, cheese, freshwater fish, fruit and vegetables championed and complemented by the best Australian and imported ingredients. These are artfully transformed into perhaps a kingfish ceviche over which is theatrically poured a ginger-infused broth, or for mains there may be a loin of lamb wrapped in caul, rare roasted and served with sweet red pepper and a battered deep-fried sage leaf. Vegetarians rejoice – there's even a meat-free degustation. Desserts are delicate and made of many layered elements, and the chef has a wonderfully light touch with sorbet and icecream. A few tips: book window tables well in advance; it's fixed-price on Saturday night (from $95); and drink mineral water, as the local tap water will spoil the experience.
Open Daily 8–10.30am, noon–3pm, 6.30pm–late
Typical prices E $23 M $40 D $19
Cards AE DC MC V Eftpos
Wine 25 pages of Australia's best, with an excellent pick from the rest of the world; 20 available by the glass/half-bottle.
Owners Alla and Allan Wolf-Tasker
Chefs Alla Wolf-Tasker and David Green
Seats 100; outdoor seating; private room; bar 
| 
