15/20
Contemporary
What would Gippsland be without Neilsons? Young chef Lewis Prince's restaurant is one of the region's best. His innovative food aims high, often incorporating seemingly disparate and fancy ingredients. Take Neilson's signature dish: braised wagyu ox cheek coated in a rich black vinegar and tamarind glaze, topped with smoked yoghurt and served with mash and a cucumber salad sprinkled with dukkah. It could be over-the-top, but instead it's beautifully cooked and plated, harmonious, and so satisfying. More mainstream is the Asian-influenced entree of grilled scallops, fragrant and tangy with ginger and black-bean paste. For dessert, don't expect your panna cotta to be predictable or pedestrian; it'll be loaded with flavour and interest, perhaps infused with kaffir lime and served with blood-orange sorbet, candied pistachios, a mound of Persian fairy floss and, for a bit of whimsy, a spoon of pop rocks – they resemble sugar crystals that crackle and fizz on your tongue. Best of all? The sound of contented diners in the charming Californian bungalow that houses this uncluttered, smart and welcoming restaurant.
Open Tues–Sat noon–3pm, 6pm–late
Typical prices E $19 M $35 D $14
Cards AE DC MC V Eftpos
Wine A small list of mainly Australian labels, with a local focus
Owners Lewis and Rebecca Prince
Chef Lewis Prince
Seats 50; outdoor seating; private room 
| 
