15/20
French
The seemingly effortless feel of this unaffected French bistro can only be created by passion and a lot of hard work. The simply elegant dining room with its cream banquettes and heavy linen shows an obvious attention to detail. Leanne Coates runs a tight front-of-house operation and the smart staff are adept at recommendations from a well-priced wine list. More hard work goes into sourcing the excellent produce that stars in the stylish bistro dishes. There's a carte supplemented by a board of specials at lunchtime that might include a rabbit salad or par-boned quails with chorizo, green olives and potatoes. The house-made bread is excellent for soaking up rich juices from the chicken livers (sauteed gently with bacon lardons, veal jus and spinach) or the sticky residue from the garlicky fried potatoes that support the duck confit. A braised and grilled lamb shoulder on potato mash with fennel and parsley salad and yoghurt is a treat of falling-apart lamb and long-cooked aromatics. Traditional French desserts include profiteroles with a warm dark-chocolate sauce. Annie Smithers' love of good produce has extended to a kitchen garden; we look forward to tasting the fruits of that labour as well.
Open Wed–Sun noon–5pm; Thurs–Sat 6pm–late
Typical prices E $19.50 M $30 D $13.50
Cards AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Good-value list of mainly Australian and French wines, with some interesting cellar bottles; BYO (corkage $10 a bottle)
Owners Annie Smithers and Leanne Coates
Chef Annie Smithers
Seats 35 
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