MoVida

16/20

Spanish

There are better locations, better rooms and, sometimes, more exceptional food to be found elsewhere. But that hasn't stopped this little slice of Spain becoming hotter than Rafa at Rod Laver Arena, and just as hard to crack – booked out for weeks, it's spawned a no-bookings sibling next door and queues commonly run down Hosier Lane. But while some elements of the place may disappoint – don't get us started on the perfunctory loos – it succeeds because of its sheer vibrancy. The menu-mainstay sardine with smoked-tomato sorbet is transcendental, while crunchy crumb-coated piquillo peppers filled with salt cod and potato are muted by comparison. Chicken escabeche, between two tiny toasts, quickly turns lip-tinglingly chilli-hot. The beef cheek poached in Pedro Ximenez shakes off its mission-brown dowdiness by melting in the mouth. Desserts, including a gooey warm chocolate ganache with vanilla-bean icecream, and churros with a milky chocolate dipping sauce have inspired a legion of imitators around town. Waitstaff are as precise as toreadors. So by the time you round off the meal with a glass of fragrant moscatel, any misgivings are likely to have succumbed to this Spanish conqueror.

Open Sun–Thurs noon–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–10.30pm
Typical prices Tapas $4.50; raciones $18.50 D $12
Cards AE DC MC V
Wine Great Spanish and Australian labels; 22 by the glass
Owners Frank Camorra, Vanessa Hodge, Andrew McMahon and David Mackintosh
Chefs Frank Camorra and James Campbell
Seats 42; bar