Brigitte Hafner and James Broadway –
Slow Food Enthusiasts
'Enoteca' is an Italian word which translates literally as 'wine library', an intriguing concept given a local twist at the Gertrude Street Enoteca. This bistro-style favourite in inner-city Fitzroy has some of the studiousness about wine that one might associate with a conventional library, plus towering shelves and enthusiastic staff, but there is no requirement to stay quiet. On the contrary, it is a lively space where customers are invited to sit and enjoy good company as well as good food and wine.
The good food is masterminded by Brigitte Hafner, who has a passion for showcasing the integrity of exquisite ingredients. 'I am excited by the provenance of fresh produce,' Brigitte says. 'I don't especially want to create new dishes or fiddly food. I enjoy cooking food that is quite rustic, quite simple.'
The good wine is overseen by James Broadway. 'Our wine by the glass list at the Enoteca is interesting and challenging,' James says. 'We want to take people on a journey. We encourage people to drink better wine, because we're excited about good wine and we want other people to be too.'
Gertrude Street Enoteca
Gertrude Street Enoteca opened in November 2004. 'It is a simple neighbourhood place people enjoy being in, where you can enjoy a glass of wine and something simple and beautiful to eat,' James says. 'It is a wine shop where you can drink and eat.' It also stocks the largest range of Single Malt whiskies by the glass in Melbourne. 'I wasn't a huge whisky drinker until we opened the Enoteca, but now we buy real whiskies wherever we can. A lot of people are really interested in the whiskies, and that's great. The whole idea for the Enoteca is that it is somewhere full of life, inspired by places we love overseas.'
Slow Food
'I see Slow Food as a form of globalisation where the little local blokes are the stars,' James says. 'It is so difficult to be a small producer these days, and if we don't support them we won't have them. It is about promoting the natural and the healthy as against the distorted and unnatural.'
European influences
Brigitte agrees that the concept grew from their travels, particularly in Italy and Spain, but enjoys its local character also. 'We have sifted a lot of European influences, and they are very obvious, but in Australia we also do things a little differently I think,' she says. 'We are taking a modern Australian approach to something that is an old European idea. 'I've loved creating the Enoteca and learning more about wine. Chefs often don't have a lot of opportunity to learn about wine, but through my partnership with Jamie I have been able to drink great wines, and I think that's how you learn.'
