Becco, like its name, is pure staccato in style and mood. In music, it would be marked vivace (fortissimo, too – it gets loud here), compared with the more tranquillo tempo of its near neighbours. Its narrow, stepped dining room, matching the slow descent of Crossley Street, has long been one of the neo-Italianate glories of this city. But Becco, for all its sophistication and fine service, has a bourgeois rather than a grand heart. Its cucina tends to be charming and honest, and all the better for it. This is reflected in the classic modern menu, which could include, for starters, a transluscent tuna carpaccio with spanner crab meat, or vitello tonnato. Segue to expertly crumbed veal or silken duck leg confit with duck cannelloni, and a handsome pasta selection. The justifiably famous fish and chips is a favourite. Desserts, too, are elemental staples, not contrived confections: thus the tireless tiramisu or sublime homemade gelato. And the quality of the coffee? How could you ask.

Open Mon–Sat noon–3pm, 6–11pm
Typical prices E $19 M $39.50 D $18
Cards AE MC V
Wine Excellent selection, especially Italian varietals, including digestifs and grappa; large range of wines by the glass, decanter or half-bottles
Owner Simon Hartley
Chefs Elizabeth Egan, Corin Sutton & Steven Ward
Seats 82; private room; bar

And … Great bar snacks, including Fiorina's near-legendary fried, stuffed green olives.