By night especially, Bistro Vue appears almost a Baz Luhrmann-esque rendering of a turn-of-the-century French bistro: with parquetry tables, scarlet banquettes and gorgeous mood lighting, it verges on being more vivid than the real thing. There are nostalgic pleasures to be found in the traditional bistro repertoire – precisely executed dishes like snails, presented appropriately in shells and with a verdant parsley crust. A pithiviers of quail and foie gras impresses with its delicate pastry casing and conversely meaty filling; and the confit duck, allied with sauteed potatoes and bacon, is rich and moist. The plat du jour, maybe pigs' trotters or cassoulet, comes with a glass of wine and salad. Elsewhere the list is strong on steak (pepper, bearnaise or diane sauces, of course), while pastas and risottos provide a populist detour. Hail the cheese trolley, or linger for a chocolate souffle that is delivered in a copper-bottomed saucepan, with an air of style, romance and tradition: a microcosm of the Bistro Vue experience.

Open Mon–Sat 11am–10pm
Typical prices E $18 M $37 D $14
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine A French, Australian and NZ-focused wine list; a handful under the $50 mark
Owner Shannon Bennett
Chef Chris Bonnello
Seats 80; outdoor seating; private room

And ... An accordionist plays Monday, Tuesday and Thursday evenings; call ahead for confirmation.