Champagne, designer shoes, chic women, Italian cars. Vintage posters for all of the above adorn this urbane eatery with its matching clientele. Perched at mustard banquettes and linen-dressed tables at close quarters, diners create a convivial buzz of chat in the high-ceilinged, timber-floored Art Deco building. Expect professional and unobtrusive service and modern Italian food that's often very polished. Some dishes are plain gorgeous: ravioli filled with rich, braised ox cheek, wee black squid-ink gnocchi with nuggets of sweet lobster, suckling lamb and baby onions ladled from the pan over polenta at table, and heirloom tomatoes tumbled with creamy burrata cheese. Desserts finish on a high: a lemon bombe Alaska has a soft meringue turban; a thin almond cake is paired with chestnut honey gelato. For loyal regulars, this classy local is molto bene.

Open Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Mon–Sat 6–10pm
Typical prices E $23 M $37 D $17
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine An excellent, eclectic list cherry-picks interesting locals paired with the best of Italy; about 14 by the glass
Owner Cat Club Pty Ltd
Chef Adam Mead
Seats 80; private room; bar

And … The function rooms are terrific, and check the website for lunch specials.