The queues for a table here rarely seem to subside, so there's an air of expectation by the time you take a seat, and the pacy, casual approach to serious dining doesn't disappoint. Staff manage a genuine welcome to the booming, stylish and lively room with open kitchen, overlooked by bar seating. The menu's made to share, with oysters served six ways, and charcuterie (from prosciutto di Parma to rabbit terrine), plus starters like tender discs of octopus with chilli, smoked tomato, dehydrated olive and aioli. For main, a whole lamb shoulder (roasted for eight hours, unadorned and Flintstones-sized) makes every day a Sunday. Partner it with impressive sides, like harissa-coated carrots on almond cream, and crisp, grilled zucchini slices with shanklish, mint and sumac. Signature dishes include the freekeh and cracked wheat salad, and piggy bits (like mustard crumbed tail). Add desserts, like choc-chip and olive oil semifreddo, and you're bound to agree it's worth the wait.

Open Mon–Fri 7am–11pm; Sat–Sun 8am–11pm; no bookings, except for groups of 7 to 14
Typical prices E $12 M $32 D $17
Cards AE MC V Eftpos
Wine A long, interesting mid- to high-end global list
Owners Andrew McConnell, Pascale Gomes-McNabb & Jayden Ong
Chefs Josh Murphy & Andrew McConnell
Seats 70; bar

And … Breakfasts are a highlight, among them baked eggs lush with satiny cheese.