It's one of Melbourne's destination dishes – master stock fried pork hock with chilli caramel – a sweet, crisp tube of meat so satiny words don't really do it justice. It's been a menu fixture at this chic yet understated basement restaurant for a dozen years, yet feels as modern as if created yesterday. Which proves Teage Ezard was one of the first to realise fine dining didn't have to play nice with flavours, that such exciting tastes shouldn't be left to Asian street-food stalls and ethnic restaurants. In the discreet, grown-up surrounds of Ezard, a crack team has always delivered bold, spicy, sour, sweet dishes using the best produce with great elegance. Coconut-roasted ocean trout is paired with avocado tempura: surprising but luxurious. The food's good-looking too: the trout wears a swirly crown of fried rice paper atop a dab of creme fraiche like a spring carnival hat. Many will start with signature oyster shooters, but don't neglect desserts: pear and caramel parfait is irresistible with salty popcorn.

Open Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm; Mon–Sat 6–10pm
Typical prices E $28 M $47 D $22
Cards DC AE MC V
Wine An impressive list, and a team keen to recommend matches for the sometimes tricky food
Owner Teage Ezard
Chefs Teage Ezard & Sharn Greiner
Seats 75; private room

And ... An eight-course degustation, plus a fixed-price menu on Friday and Saturday nights.