Gill's Diner has grown up. It's shed some of its sharper edges but lost none of its appeal. The service has eschewed its eccentricities in favour of a more grounded approach; a welcome change of pace. The menu too shrugs off the traditional structure to cater for grazers as well as the dedicated dining crowd. The blackboard list is brief but you still feel spoiled for choice. Duck, pork and chicken terrine with piquant tomato chutney, or a house-made beef and burgundy pie with chips? There's no wrong answer. Pasta dishes are a highlight – with generous amounts of just-cooked seafood and a perfect garlic-to-chilli ratio, the marinara is a textbook example. The kitchen knows its strengths and plays to them with such offerings as crisp-skinned kingfish with sumac and a tangy chilli, walnut and yoghurt dressing. Churros are a dessert favourite. Technically assured cooking with a modern, slightly quirky edge makes this noisy, one-time laneway garage a perennial city favourite.

Open Mon–Fri 7am–10pm; Sat 8am–10pm
Typical prices E $15 M $32 D $12
Cards DC AE MC V
Wine Short sharp and to the point with a great selection by the glass; BYO Mon-Thurs (corkage $15 a bottle)
Owners Con Christopoulos & Chris Kerr
Chef Ian Alexander
Seats 55

And ... The adjacent bakery breathes new life into retro classics like corned beef sandwiches; and has good pies and breads.