Does Pearl still have the same lustre now that Geoff Lindsay, the, ah, father-of-pearl, has moved on? The good news is it does, although some elements shine more than others. The sleek white dining room is still one of Melbourne's most chic, and service is friendly and switched-on, but the food can sometimes miss its usually high mark. Among starters, a green pea and smoked ham hock 'soup' is hearty and artful bliss, the ham's salty bite balanced by a fat teardrop of soft-centred burrata cheese, while a king prawn sang choy bao is pleasant but innocuous. The same could be said of a main course of baby snapper with tapioca crust and turmeric broth, but happily the tweaked duck curry is still a showstopper, a potent blend of coconut-braised spiced duck meat, son-in-law egg and herbs. Desserts, perhaps a white chocolate and pistachio nougat semifreddo with pineapple chip, are pretty and assured. At its best, Pearl's still a peach.

Open Daily noon–3pm, 6–11pm
Typical prices E $29.50 M $47.50 D $19.50
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Lengthy, mostly high-end list laden with prestige and boutique drops, all with extensive tasting notes; some lofty pricing
Owner Chris Lucas
Chef Dave Ricardo
Seats 92; outdoor seating; bar

And … The wine list is on an iPad, so wins instant points for embracing technology.