If purifying dishes of salt at the door, calligraphy by Iron Chef Kandagawa or fresh wasabi root awaiting grating on shark skin is not testimony enough to Shoya's intent, Shigeo Nonaka's finesse with the knife – and the delicacy of his offerings – certainly is. Shoya means rising up, and it does, from the ground floor's fun yakiniku barbecue. The mid-levels, dressed in dark wood, showcase Nonaka's modern Japanese dishes, while further up there's karaoke and a bar. Sample the degustation menus and expect superb and unusual seafood alongside more adventurous offerings such as 'Hatching Ocean Egg', a steamed egg custard with spinach puree and scampi tempura; or the ocean cornucopia 'Umi no Megumi' – green-tea soba in lobster-rich broth with Hokkaido scallop, luxurious Japanese king crab and grilled calamari. You can order by the piece and chat to Nonaka at the sushi bar as he prepares dishes of wonderful intricacy – there's no more authentic Japanese experience in Melbourne.

Open Daily noon–2.30pm; Sun–Thurs 6–10.30pm; Fri–Sat 6–11pm
Typical prices E $15.50 M $28 D $12; degustation $100–$180
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Superb list of premium wines, good range by the glass; fantastic sakes and shochus are the highlight
Owners Ron Lim & Shigeo Nonaka
Chef Shigeo Nonaka
Seats 25; private room; bar

And … There are wheat-free and vegetarian menus.