The view over Albert Park Lake is great, but that's not the only fine sight at this restaurant: at the top of the stairs, near the entry, a display of excellent meat signals the Point's renown as a great steakhouse. However excellent the chateaubriand for two, and wonderful the range of grain- and grass-fed steaks, what takes the Point even higher is the professionalism of the staff, and the imagination and assurance of other dishes. Entrees show particular skill, as in a satisfyingly rich combination of boned, stuffed and braised chicken wings with house-made macaroni and a trumpet mushroom and parmesan foam. There's evidence of solid training in French cooking in the sauces, like the salmis that finishes the roasted pigeon served with truffled gnocchi, accompanied by a sweet carrot and vanilla puree. Desserts tend to a flurry of flavours (fig and honeycomb parfait with gingerbread and aged balsamic); lovely petits fours may suffice to finish.

Open Daily noon–3.30pm, 6pm–late
Typical prices E $27 M $44 D $17
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Huge Australian and international selection, wide ranging in price, with a good variety by the glass
Owner Venice Pty Ltd
Chef Scott Pickett
Seats 100; outdoor seating; private room

And … The Point was on the market as we went to press. Call them for updates.