If Stefano de Pieri didn’t exist, Mildura would have to invent him. His storied, elegant basement dining space, a wing of which stretches deep into the old hotel cellars, pays homage to the region’s history and rich immigrant heritage while showcasing wonderful local produce. Five nights a week, locals and pilgrims mass for five courses set ‘at the whim of the chef’. Over a languid evening they enjoy professional, country-friendly service, an extensive wine list - which can be matched by the glass with the menu - and seasonal food with its heart in the north of Italy but infused with global flavours. An autumn menu might offer rich baccala quenelles on polenta, battered zucchini flowers, gloriously robust local quail ravioli with sage butter sauce and braised beef cheeks served with vegetables chosen from the Sunraysia Farmers’ Market by the very real Stefano himself.

Open Tues–Sat 7–11pm
Typical prices Set menu $110
Cards AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Extensive with an excellent range of Italian varietals, locals and Stefano’s own, Italian-style label; good, changing selection by the glass
Owners Stefano de Pieri & Donata Carrazza
Chefs Stefano de Pieri & Peter Webley
Seats 55; private room

And … Not a froth, foam or faux gravel to be seen, just honest and consummate cucina povera.