This 1854 grand dame on one of the earliest and richest pastoral properties in the region is old-world opulent. The conservatory-style fine dining room is the valley’s most formal, with plush carpets and lavish brocades. So the confident, adventurous cooking surprises in such a setting. Designed around luxury produce, it unfolds best through degustation dining. A delicate tumble of southern rock lobster and shaved baby abalone crowned in savoury Japanese egg custard is doused, last minute, in a luscious dark lobster consomme. Plump roast duck breast on Pedro Ximenez glaze and smoked banana puree sits among baby figs, sweet pumpkin pie and pastry-sandwiched foie gras. Suckling pig (confit, sous-vide then seared) showcases the chef’s interest in texture and robust flavour. Harmony is sometimes the compromise with more unusual combinations, and though service can lack finesse from time to time, romance and ceremony win out at this country-house hotel.

Open Daily 6.30–10pm
Typical prices Set menus $85 (2 courses), $98 (3 courses); tasting menus from $130
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Fine Australian, aged and reserve plus the Yarra Valley’s best with a salute to the Old World; 21 by the glass
Owners Len & Elly Milner
Chef Mathew Macartney
Seats 110; private room; bar

And … No denim, collared shirts for gents - and mobiles off at this Relais & Chateaux property.